KUALA Lumpur has finally returned to what we remember it to be – a busy business hub that attracts all walks of life.
If we factor in the Covid contagion, the eclectic metropolis has seen better days when it comes to happening events in the past few months. The struggle of having to battle the stillness of social distancing restrictions has left previously high human traffic areas empty.
So, with this in mind, experiencing returning normalcy through the sights, sounds and smells – of delicacies from known eateries and trading activities that managed to survive the pandemic – was luxuriating.
Keeping it alive
Taking the opportunity to resume operations, the Free Walk Kuala Lumpur Unscripted (FWKLU) tourist guide group, led by award-winning guide Jane Rai, were also up on their feet actively encouraging the weekend crowd to join them on their off-the-cuff heritage tour of the city.
Coincidentally fitting in with the assignment, The Vibes team participated in FWKLU’s first two-hour group activity after the lifting of the lockdown and it was interesting to see that it was well received given the turnout. Three other members of FWKLU joined Rai to accommodate us that day, splitting the group into two.
“Following our passion project that we call ‘Keeping KL’s Heritage Alive’, as tourist guides we thought that the best way to push for it is to connect people to the tales of the city by telling the stories that shape the area,” shared Rai, who has been an expert in her field since 1993.
Passionate about preserving KL’s heritage, she further noted: “… the idea is to get people connected with the community”.
“We have been hibernating (of sorts) and were not able to do in-person tours for months now, apart from virtual ones.
“It’s exciting to be guiding the party here today and we do appreciate participants taking time off during their precious weekend just to join the tour.
“Because our tour is unscripted, the guides can decide on which route to take suitable for a group. Even if you are going on a tour with us for a second time, you will not explore the same exact route,” she added.
Hidden stories of the old city
Our explorations were focused on Chinatown and its surroundings, which makes the walkabout even more worthwhile.
Who would have thought that Jalan Petaling was once popularly known for its Opium den?
Among the notable sites included the stretch of Jalan Balai Polis aka Station Road, where the historical Gurdwara Sahib Polis still sits, the old post office built in 1911 by the Federated Malay States Postal Authority (established by the British) to serve the centre of Kuala Lumpur then as well as Kwai Chai Hong along Jalan Panggong, and the Sri Mahamariamman Temple founded by K. Thamboosamy Pillai in 1873.
As the city resurrects its soul over the first weekend since travel restrictions were lifted for fully vaccinated individuals, it was exciting to see hip restaurants and cafes within the area being able to service customers in full force. These establishments sprouted like wildflowers despite the turbulent economic times.
“This type of diverse setup is typical of the area(s) visited, where it is a central place that allows for the convergence of cultures to happen,” noted Rai.
She shared that the word ‘Chinatown’ itself was only introduced in the 70s to brand the area and make it media-friendly.
What is interesting for people to note is that today, 3rd and 4th generations are coming back to this rather quiet part of town, “... taking over family businesses and reopening them with new approaches.”
“Some have entirely moved away from the traditional enterprise of their predecessors to be more hip and in tune with the current times,” said the tour guide.
Generations worth
Still holding on to the nobility of continuing the family trade is KC Koh, a third generation tea merchant we met during the walk.
The 44-year-old shop owner fully commits himself to his family business, which (locally) began when his grandfather established Kean Guan Tea Merchants back in 1945.
His father then continued on the legacy, before he joined in the operations of “... the oldest tea shop in Jalan Petaling.”
“My grandfather came from Fujian province where tea is known as a famous commodity there and we actually imported Oolong,” expressed KC.
“He sold a variety of things in the beginning but eventually tea became the sole product, and fortunately the trade is kept alive until today,” he added, sharing that the family carries their own original tea brands, “One from grandfather’s time, and another during my father’s, known as Chian Li Shiang and Li Shui Kwei.”
“We predominantly carry Oolong but of course as time passes, and preferences are more varied, we expand our options and carry a few more – notably Pu’er and Green tea,” said KC.
“We also have Liu Bao, which is very interesting in Malaysia, because the tea itself has a historical link to it where it was in demand among tin miners.
“They have to take this type of specialty tea where the community viewed it as somewhat medicinal. Having spent most of their time mining, they drink this tea for its function of getting extra moisture out of the body,” added the tea merchant.
Even as a city-dweller, one would not have figured out how easy it is to get lost in the history of Kuala Lumpur (in this case Chinatown and the surrounding neighbourhood) while learning new things about the interesting places and the people behind them. – The Vibes, October 23, 2021
*If you are interested in spending your leisurely weekend exploring the hidden gems of the city, FWKLU organises free (tip-based) walking tours every Saturday and Sunday. Visit their Facebook page or website for more information.
