Food

Chef Mandy Goh’s latest incarnation at Atas 

Rooted in the philosophy of modern Euro-Asian cuisine, Chef Mandy endeavours to evolve the Atas journey

Updated 3 years ago · Published on 03 Dec 2022 3:10PM

Chef Mandy Goh’s latest incarnation at Atas 
Chef Mandy was just 21 years old when she won gold at the all-female Malaysia National team for the prestigious Bocuse D’or Asia. – Pic courtesy of The RuMa, December 3, 2022

by Shazmin Shamsuddin

ASCENDING The RuMa Hotel and Residences’ iconic spiral staircase leading to Atas, the hotel’s distinctive historical and cultural elements play out on an epicurean journey.

Located on the Mezzanine Level, Atas features an open kitchen dining concept with tiles from Royal Selangor, renowned worldwide for its high-quality pewter and cosy half-moon banquette seats. 

Evocative of Malaysia’s tin mining history, this modern-day interpretation of the Malaysian story is reflected in every element of the guests’ dining experience.

Once inside, guests will embark on an epicurean journey to uncover more of the city’s origins and its colonial influences, adorned with a copper-tiled ceiling, and be captivated by the seamless design that integrates a modern space uniquely crafted with cultural influences by local artisans. 

Japanese tuna with organic melon. – Pic courtesy of the RuMa
Japanese tuna with organic melon. – Pic courtesy of the RuMa
Honeygrid taco. – Pic courtesy of RuMa
Honeygrid taco. – Pic courtesy of RuMa

Atas welcomes Chef Mandy Goh at the helm of the kitchen, bringing with her a wealth of experience from working at some of the world's top tables.

Embarking on her mission to infuse Asian and European flavours with her original and distinctive concepts, Chef Mandy will evolve seasonal menu presentations across Atas’ culinary presentations.

With her unique recipes based on a fervent commitment to the finest and freshest quality ingredients responsibly sourced from across the globe and local farms, Chef Mandy’s contemporary and creative approach sits at the heart of Atas’ enthralling appeal.

The foundation of Chef Mandy’s cuisine philosophy lies in her imaginative style enriched by her love for discovering the alchemy of flavours and ingredients.  

(From left) Japanese tuna, coral lobster with Madagascar vanilla, abalone with Chanterelle mushrooms, and cannelloni tartare with almond miso. – Shazmin Shamsuddin pic
(From left) Japanese tuna, coral lobster with Madagascar vanilla, abalone with Chanterelle mushrooms, and cannelloni tartare with almond miso. – Shazmin Shamsuddin pic

The genesis of Chef Mandy’s immersion in the culinary world had humble beginnings in her hometown of Penang. Her passion for cooking was instilled at a tender age.

Chef Mandy was just 21 years old when she won gold at the all-female Malaysia National team for the prestigious Bocuse D’or Asia – a first for an all-female team to win this highly competitive culinary competition, an honour which encouraged her to further perfect her craft.

Chef Mandy returns to Kuala Lumpur from The St. Regis Langkawi from her prior roles as Executive Chef of Shanghai’s Fifty 8° Grill Restaurant by Michelin-starred Chef Richard Ekkebus.

Previous roles also included The Manor at The St. Regis Macao and the Michelin-starred restaurant Guy Savoy, Singapore.

Black feet poulet with Modena aged vinegar. – Shazmin Shamsuddin pic
Black feet poulet with Modena aged vinegar. – Shazmin Shamsuddin pic

Rooted in the philosophy of modern Euro-Asian cuisine, Chef Mandy endeavours to evolve the Atas journey, bringing more storytelling and experiential elements to the guests’ experience.

Atas is an irresistible invitation to reconnect with the richness of classics reimagined by Chef Mandy with a modern elegant twist. 

Chef Mandy debuts with three menus – an À La Carte menu featuring Kaluga Hybrid-Light Caviar served with Honey Grid Taco, Grilled Kailan Carbonara with Duck Egg Yolk & Beef Bacon to name a few, and the signature Charcoal Grilled mains.

The Cultural Heritage Set Menu harks back to Asian favourites fusing regional ingredients like Mud Crab Sambal with Sturgeon Caviar and Chef Mandy’s signature Asam Pedas Risotto. 

(From left) A5 Omi steak, the Koji butter, buckwheat blini and the celebrated bread. – Shazmin Shamsuddin pic
(From left) A5 Omi steak, the Koji butter, buckwheat blini and the celebrated bread. – Shazmin Shamsuddin pic

The final pièce de résistance is the Contemporary Set Menu which spotlights Chef Mandy’s artful techniques honed from her culinary influences, which starts with Buckwheat Blini & Honeygrid Taco, Cranberry & Walnut Bread and the Abalone & Chanterelle Mushrooms infused with Chestnut, Sake Jelly, Pandan & Yuzu. 

My fellow diners this particular evening consisted of seasoned food writers and key opinion leaders with strong F&B leanings. All agree that the highlight of the Contemporary menu was the Cranberry Walnut Bread with marmalade and dark rum butter.

This was followed closely by the Japanese Tuna with Organic Melon, the Coral Lobster with Madagascar Vanilla sabayon, the refreshing Sakura Tomato Umeboshi Granita with smoked kelp and sea grapes, and the A5 Omi Steak with Aubergine Caviar.

While bites were bijou, the number of courses was extensive (13 courses) and you are delivered of this experience rich in oral sensory satisfaction and a sated belly.

Atas, with its name inspired by the Malay word for “upstairs,” exudes a tongue-in-chic undertone when referring to something “upper-class”.

The restaurant features a spacious open floor plan where guests can browse and occupy the kitchen area at breakfast, before transforming into a show kitchen for a more immersive dining experience during lunch and dinner. – The Vibes, December 3, 2022

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