Food

Rhythm of Ramadan: no pauses in practice and devotion

As the crescent moon is sighted, the holy month of Ramadan begins with Muslims eagerly returning to near-normal life

Updated 2 years ago · Published on 03 Apr 2022 10:15AM

Rhythm of Ramadan: no pauses in practice and devotion
This year as we move forward, the opportunity to connect more deeply with our communities and neighbours in a collective space should be cherished for its ability to heal (spiritually and emotionally). If this is well understood, the respect and care will transcend in the individual space(s) as well. – SAIRIEN NAFIS/The Vibes pic, April 3, 2022

by Amalina Kamal

APRIL marks a time when the country attempts to transition to the endemic phase. And it appropriately begins with the welcoming of a month of spiritual reflection.

How will the endemic affect the activities built around it and how will the observing community prepare for the celebration?

Muslims don’t necessarily prepare for Ramadan grandiosely apart from attending prayers at their local mosques, submitting donations or returning home to the immediate family to start the fasting month with spiritual and familial comfort.

There is no big celebration on the eve like New Year's or how the community reacts to religious festivities such as the Aidilfitri celebration.

But of course, if you are familiar enough with Ramadan, you would know that it is synonymous with the variation of outdoor bazaars and community iftars.

Devotees entering and exiting Masjid Jamek Kuala Lumpur, one of the oldest mosques in the city centre. Muslims don’t necessarily prepare for Ramadan grandiosely on the eve of the holy month apart from visiting their local mosques for prayers. – SAIRIEN NAFIS/The Vibes pic
Devotees entering and exiting Masjid Jamek Kuala Lumpur, one of the oldest mosques in the city centre. Muslims don’t necessarily prepare for Ramadan grandiosely on the eve of the holy month apart from visiting their local mosques for prayers. – SAIRIEN NAFIS/The Vibes pic

Fewer frills Ramadan

The month was not seen in full force the last two years with the public at large being much more overtly paranoid with social interactions as vaccination rates have not reached an ideal percentage deemed comfortable.

Covid-19 rules are under a much-relaxed state effective last Friday, where the most highlighted update to the prolonged standard operating procedures (SOPs) is the lifting of restrictions on business operating hours as well as interstate travel being allowed for all regardless of vaccination status.

However, certain mandatory practices are still in place – such as the wearing of face masks in public places and MySejahtera check-ins – to maintain some degree of public health safety and contact tracing.

Kampung Sungai Penchala residents’ association chairman Shohaimy Saad shares that this year, visitors looking forward to the popular Ramadan bazaar in the area can expect around 52 of their favourite stalls returning to serve customers.

The Kampung Sungai Penchala Ramadan Bazaar will be returning this year at the same site as the Tapak Pasar Malam Kg Sg Penchala. More than 50 stalls will be participating, including the famous ‘Murtabak Beratur Sg Penchala’. – SAIRIEN NAFIS/The Vibes pic
The Kampung Sungai Penchala Ramadan Bazaar will be returning this year at the same site as the Tapak Pasar Malam Kg Sg Penchala. More than 50 stalls will be participating, including the famous ‘Murtabak Beratur Sg Penchala’. – SAIRIEN NAFIS/The Vibes pic
Shohaimy Saad has been living in Kampung Sungai Penchala for all of his 63 years. – SAIRIEN NAFIS/The Vibes pic
Shohaimy Saad has been living in Kampung Sungai Penchala for all of his 63 years. – SAIRIEN NAFIS/The Vibes pic

“One of which is the sought after ‘Murtabak Beratur Sg Penchala’,” shared the sixty-three-year-old when approached after a committee meeting a day ahead of the fasting month to finalise operating permits issued by the local council.

“Although the number of registered sellers is considered relatively small, the bazaar site is not that large.

“Pre-Covid, we used to have about 100–120 food stalls partaking in the bazaar. DBKL has allowed for us to bring in 80 (stalls) at the most but some sellers are still quite scared to jump back in hastily and it is fine,” noted Shohaimy.

He added that the remaining slots are still open for potential vendors looking to participate where the admission mission for a lot to set up a stall (excluding tent and table) is priced at RM450 for the entire month.

*Bazar Ramadhan 2021 | Kampung Sungai Penchala Kuala Lumpur

Born, raised and living in the Malay village for the past six decades, the retiree commends his birthplace as it attracts not just residents but also those from the nearby TTDI, Damansara “...and even Mont Kiara.”

“I think when it comes to food, they love the options here because there are a lot more kampung-style delicacies (apart from the bazaar food options) that you can find to satisfy any local cravings,” he shared.

“Those interested can come as early as 3pm to look at the options available.”

Drinks seller Fariza Marjun has been serving customers at the site for close to nine years. 

For the Ramadan bazaar, her stall will again serve thirst-quenching drink options with a speciality drink known as ‘Teh Ais Klebang’. 

Fariza Marjun, 37, has been serving customers at the Ramadan bazaar for the past nine years. – SAIRIEN NAFIS/The Vibes pic
Fariza Marjun, 37, has been serving customers at the Ramadan bazaar for the past nine years. – SAIRIEN NAFIS/The Vibes pic

“We have been told by the committee chairman of the nearby mosque (Masjid Jamek Tengku Abdul Aziz Shah) to add more variety so we will start the week with most likely eight jars first before increasing based on demands. This is to ensure the community is appropriately catered to,” she notes.

“There will be other drink stalls available so I think customers will have a great time in choosing what to get,” she added.

The recognition that most of our local Ramadan bazaars get is on the aspect of how extensive Malaysian fares are. 

Having said that, the deeper understanding of enjoying these feasts is to promote social harmony and diversity within the community and guests join as they savour and feast together in grace.

On a more personal level, Ramadan is truly a moment where you understand the language of your body — “it tells you about hunger, loud and clear. But it tells you about pleasure too…”, as detailed in Poetry Foundation’s podcast, ‘The Language of Ramadan’.

The human traffic and activity are significantly more upbeat – Kampung Baru being a renowned Malay village in the middle of KL and a centre of great eats. – SAIRIEN NAFIS/The Vibes pic
The human traffic and activity are significantly more upbeat – Kampung Baru being a renowned Malay village in the middle of KL and a centre of great eats. – SAIRIEN NAFIS/The Vibes pic

Empathy and gratitude, the internal and ethical growth

Sahur is another important moment for devotees to energise themselves right before their morning prayers, and when the sun rises to mark the start of the fasting countdown.

One place notable for being available to serve customers consistent and flavourful meals in the wee hours of the morning is Wan Suraya Seafood (Suraya Seafood 2) on Jalan Raja Alang, in the renowned Kampung Baru Kuala Lumpur.

From laksa and nasi kerabu to nasi kukus ayam rempah, pulut mangga and more, there you can find an abundance of dishes, in which some could even be native to your kampung. Just bear in mind that there will be a queue, only the ultimate foodie may be able to survive.

The human traffic and activity were significantly more upbeat in Kampung Baru compared to the casual scenery in Sungai Penchala on the eve of the holy month.

You could see the community actively outside checking the condition of their equipment and gas fire for bubur lambuk preparation and other Ramadan staples.

(Above and below) Wan Suraya Seafood (Suraya Seafood 2) is a happening food stop to visit in Kampung Baru this Ramadan. The shop also opens for sahur. – SAIRIEN NAFIS/The Vibes pic
(Above and below) Wan Suraya Seafood (Suraya Seafood 2) is a happening food stop to visit in Kampung Baru this Ramadan. The shop also opens for sahur. – SAIRIEN NAFIS/The Vibes pic

This scenery is also shared with individuals like the writer and photographer curious to see what preparations are like before the month begins.

Forty-year-old Muhammad Anas Syaibatulham shares he would not want to be in any other place than Kampung Baru because of the location’s ease of access, “...to a lot of things. Food is only just one thing.”

“Observing Ramadan here is a unique experience because you have a big city like KL as the backdrop and where KLCC is literally behind the neighbourhood. But you still get the essence of what it is truly like living in a kampung,” he shared while waiting for his Ramly burger order to be served.

Originally from Seremban, Anas has been living in the area for the past four years, raising his one-year-old with his wife. If he is not busy working at a restaurant in the area, he would help his uncle at a clothing shop 2km away at Jalan Masjid India.

Muhammad Anas Syaibatulham loves living in Kampung Baru and has been a resident for four years. He came from Seremban to come and work with his uncle who is a longtime resident of the area. – SAIRIEN NAFIS/The Vibes pic
Muhammad Anas Syaibatulham loves living in Kampung Baru and has been a resident for four years. He came from Seremban to come and work with his uncle who is a longtime resident of the area. – SAIRIEN NAFIS/The Vibes pic

The familiar setting that he means is not an exaggeration because you would see residents walking from their homes to the mosque in their full prayer attire.

Women in their telekung carrying small prayer bags, and men in their kain pelikat and baju melayu with a sejadah placed neatly on the shoulder. At times they would stop to greet somebody they know and after they have performed their solat (prayers), sit and catch up at a nearby warung. There is a visible community-level kinship. 

“Ramadan is a special month but I don’t have anything specifically planned apart from tarawih – a voluntary (nafl) night prayer performed only in Ramadan and a highly regarded Sunnah (traditions and practices of Prophet Muhammad) – and spending more time with the family,” said Anas.

Kampung Baru community checking the condition of their equipment and gas fire for bubur lambuk preparation, a Ramadan staple dish. – SAIRIEN NAFIS/The Vibes pic
Kampung Baru community checking the condition of their equipment and gas fire for bubur lambuk preparation, a Ramadan staple dish. – SAIRIEN NAFIS/The Vibes pic

“In the daytime, I will be working at my uncle’s shop selling goods because there is a month-long pop-up bazaar in front,” he added. 

The gift of generosity and gratitude does not come just from telling, but through experience. Since the pandemic hit, we dabbled on how one must go through the holiest celebrations (regardless of religion) in social isolation. 

This year as we move forward, the opportunity to connect more deeply with our communities and neighbours in a collective space should be cherished for its ability to heal (spiritually and emotionally). If this is well understood, the respect and care will transcend in the individual space(s) as well. – The Vibes, April 3, 2022

*The Vibes would like to wish a safe and blessed Ramadan for Muslims celebrating.

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