GENERALLY speaking, women in the food and beverage industry have been historically underrepresented. Be it in various roles in the kitchen, running the show behind the scenes, or further back in the supply line, the gender balance can be quite unequal.
Many women are put off by long hours, difficult working conditions, with the thought of making a career in hospitality unappealing to many.
On March 16, in conjunction with International Women’s Day (who says we only need one day to celebrate women), a pop-up event at Ignis, a restaurant at The Sphere in Bangsar South highlighted the talents of Chef Jun Wong, pastry chef Ooi Viyern, and bartender Chong Wen Shan.
Jun is a veteran of restaurants abroad listed in the Michelin Guide and the 50 Best list, but she returned to Kuala Lumpur to hone her craft in 2017, being driven by her philosophy of “respect, restraint and understanding” towards food. She is about to open Yellow Fin Horse, an elemental, open-fire cooking, seafood centric restaurant in Else Kuala Lumpur.
Though a guest in the kitchen at Ignis – which offers a fusion of European and Asian inspired ingredients over woodfire and charcoal grills – Jun was able to put together some artful and delectable dishes.
The plates showed a balance of flavours and textures. ‘Potaytoe, potahtoh’ was an elevated version of homemade potato chips with a sour cream dip. The Sinaloa-style sea prawn aguachile is a very unique dish – a refreshing cold seafood soup. The prawns are hidden beneath the surface, but they’re cut lengthwise so they’re a good mouthful. The charred asparagus is artfully assembled, with the anchovy sauce giving it an umami punch. The main course of a kombu cured red snapper had a crisp skin with really flavourful meat.
Ooi is a graduate of Culinary Arts in Switzerland, spending the next few years on a world tour with stops in Geneva, Turkey, New York, Singapore, where she led the pastry section for one-Michelin-starred Saint Pierre before joining the opening team of Saint Pierre Kuala Lumpur. She is currently Executive Pastry Chef of Fine Diners, a restaurant group with brands such as Ignis, The Farm, and others.
The big highlight of the three desserts selection is the deconstructed apple pie with smoked apple, vanilla, pie crust, and Johnnie Walker Black Label ice cream. Combining all the components into one bite is a textural experience, equal parts creamy, crunchy, with a bit of chew. The s’mores were a surprise, coming after the meal was thought to have ended. With the top of marshmallow caramelised with a torch, and a gooey chocolate base, the dish was a great way to end the night.
Chong studied Culinary Arts in Taiwan before beginning her career as a barista at Privé in Singapore, before deciding to hone her bartending skills. She is currently the bartender at Ignis.
For the night, two cocktails were on offer, both utilising Johnnie Walker, the sponsor for the event. The Berry Label is composed of blackberry, Johnnie Walker Black Label, lemon juice, and sugar. With a sprig of rosemary and a strawberry as garnish, it’s a nice start to the evening, with the sweetness almost covering up the blended whisky. The Watermelon Splash is made of mint leaves, Johnnie Walker Black Label, St-Germain, watermelon, lemon juice, and demerara. The ice cold watermelon cores were satisfying in between sips of a well balanced cocktail. Be warned, the whisky is a bit sneaky.
Combined together, the efforts of Jun, Ooi, and Chong put together a satisfying meal. Jun will be opening Yellow Fin Horse later this month, while Ooi and Chong can be found honing their skills at Ignis in Bangsar South. – The Vibes, April 1, 2023
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