Heritage

Another iconic food joint shutters in George Town

Tai Buan Porridge closes doors after six decades

Updated 5 years ago · Published on 21 Feb 2021 10:00AM

Another iconic food joint shutters in George Town
All clean and ready to close. Ong Tai Buan, owner of Tai Buan Porridge, at his eatery. – RACHEL YEOH/The Vibes pic, February 21, 2021

by Rachel Yeoh

GEORGE TOWN – The on-again-off-again movement control order is strapping hawkers and food store owners on a never-ending ride.

Ong Tai Buan, the man that owns the highly regarded Tai Buan Porridge here, is calling it quits after six decades.

Serving one of the best Teochew porridge here, Ong said that it was time to say goodbye for now. His last day of operation is February 26.

As word got around of his impending closure, long lines have appeared as people seek out the famed street food.

On why he decided to shut down his long-standing business, he said there were several factors. And one of them was due to the MCO that continues to be unpredictable.

“For a business like mine, I earn when people come and dine in. When I opened just for takeaway, I probably only get five customers, so instead of operating, I just closed shop for three weeks,” the 74-year-old said.

Customers lining up to have their last meal here. – RACHEL YEOH/The Vibes pic
Customers lining up to have their last meal here. – RACHEL YEOH/The Vibes pic
Ong busy at work. – RACHEL YEOH/The Vibes pic
Ong busy at work. – RACHEL YEOH/The Vibes pic

“I cannot cook the normal portion during MCO – the food will be wasted.

“When people are allowed to dine in, customers begin to patronise my place again."

Another reason was that the pre-war house that he is renting to run the business will be undergoing a major renovation.

“I don’t know when this lot's renovation will be completed. Coupled with my Indonesian helper that will be going back to her country, I decided that it is time for me to close my business.”

On what's in store after retiring, he said that he will be doing what grandfathers do – watching Astro and doting on his grandchildren.

Ong wakes up at 6am on weekends to prepare an array of dishes like braised pork, braised duck, braised egg, salted mustard greens and their best selling sweet preserved radish omelette, to pair with their soupy-consistency plain porridge.

“We wanted to close two weeks before the end of the month, but since it was MCO, we thought we should just open for the last two weeks of the month before we hand this place back to the landlord.

“I think someone posted on Facebook telling people that we are closing, that is why there is a very long line these few days. But, customers today are different. During MCO, they have learnt to wait without getting angry and demanding to be served first,” he said.

Many of his regular customers encouraged him to move his business to another location. 

Ong reminiscing the times when he manned a stall at Chulia Street in 2000. – RACHEL YEOH/The Vibes pic
Ong reminiscing the times when he manned a stall at Chulia Street in 2000. – RACHEL YEOH/The Vibes pic
Ong does not expect his daughter (right) to take over the business. – RACHEL YEOH/The Vibes pic
Ong does not expect his daughter (right) to take over the business. – RACHEL YEOH/The Vibes pic

He has been toying with that idea; but, it will not be considered until the Covid-19 fiasco is over.

“I took over the business after my father passed away – he has been selling Teochew porridge for as long as I remember. I started selling at Chulia street in the 1960s before moving to this location in Muntri Street in 2000.

“But, I don’t expect my daughter to take over the business, she can do whatever she wants to do. Times have changed, and so, I don’t want to put this kind of expectation (of taking over the business) on her.”

At the beginning of the week, Hong Kee Wan Thun Mee, a well-known food store selling Hong Kong-style wonton noodle also known as Kung Fu Bamboo Noodles had closed shop, rumoured to be due to the MCO.

Penang Petty Traders' Association president Ooi Thean Huat told The Vibes that during these turbulent times, famous coffee shops in George Town are forced to close because there are no tourists to dine in and locals are not keen to eat out.

But, Ooi said that some of these owners are looking wait it out or find a better, more populated location open up business as George Town is seeing dwindling tourist numbers and fewer office workers. – The Vibes, February 21, 2021

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