PORT KLANG – One of Port Klang’s most prolific citizens, P.R. Meippan, passed away on Friday – just eight days shy of his 88th birthday.
Meippan was born on December 18, 1934 in Tamil Nadu, India.
Meippan ran arguably one of the country’s most iconic Indian banana leaf restaurants, which bears his name.
The restaurant is located along a row of dilapidated shops on Jalan Kem.
He started his eatery in 1953 at a warong next to Chartered Bank here before moving to Jalan Kem about 47 years ago.
Meippan worked in the stall for four years before buying it over from his employers and literally stamping his name on what would become a banana leaf institution.
Apart from the signature dishes of ayam kampung curry, dry mutton gravy, fish head curry, local goat “kodal curry”, patrons also looked forward to listening to his stories of Port Klang and the ports from which it drew its name.
His patrons included port workers, office staff, CEOs and politicians.
Every transport minister who visited Port Klang would make it a point to stop for lunch at his restaurant – evident by the photographs of the likes of Tun Dr Ling Liong Sik, Tan Sri Chan Kong Choy and Tan Sri Ong Tee Keat, which adorn its walls.
Meippan would cook the dishes himself, while later handing over the ladle to trusted cooks from India but still keeping a sharp supervisory eye in the kitchen to ensure the quality of his food is not compromised.
The making of an institution
The port was bustling during the 1970s and many were employed by the Port Klang Authority (PKA) and port services related companies, especially the stevedores and the port staff, said regular patron V. Balakrishnan, a former general manager of PKA.
He said there were very few Indian food outlets, but this was the place many thronged to, with many youngsters using the 555 I.O.U. notebook to pay for their meals after getting their salary.
“This was made possible and affordable due to the generosity of Mr Meiappan,” Balakrishnan added.
N. Sankunny, the former assistant general manager of Northport, said during the days when the SS Chidambaram and SS Rajula voyaged to India, many families of the travelling person would make a compulsory stopover for lunch at Meiappan.
“It was probably their last authentic Indian meal before they arrived in India,” he said.
A generous soul who kept giving
Another regular, Ravindran Raman Kutty, said Meippan was a charitable person who helped rebuild the 50 houses destroyed in the infamous Port Klang fire of June 1980.
“He also employed many locals irrespective of race or religion to help run his restaurant.
“Every Deepavali, he provided free food for the poor,” Ravindran said.
“My favourite days are my Friday lunches. While the food is good, it’s this man who moves from table to table and asks if he can bring anything more.
“Without fail, he gets my bru coffee with cow’s milk. The meal and the conversation makes my day complete.
“I will miss him,” said Ravindran, who once headed Northport’s communications department.
Former Kuala Lumpur City Hall advisory board member Datuk P. Gunaseelan said the demise of Meiappan is a great loss for food lovers.
“He has the golden touch in cooking, especially chicken and mutton peratal.
“Before the Klang Bridge was built, he would take the ferry from Port Klang to the Klang market every Thursday to buy chicken and mutton.
“There would be an extraordinary crowd on Thursdays to taste his chicken and mutton peratal.
“His restaurant will be flooded with Port Klang officials and workers for breakfast and lunch,” he said.
“Politicians, especially MIC leaders like the late Tun S. Samy Vellu, were regulars here,” Gunaseelan added.
He said that up to the last few months of his life, Meiappan never failed to make his presence felt to monitor the cooking to ensure quality.
“He was hardworking, respected, down to earth and an icon in the restaurant business.
“He has left unforgettable memories and he will be fondly remembered for a long time,” Gunaseelan said, adding it is now the duty of his sons to ensure the late Meiappan’s standards are maintained.
Meippan’s son Sundar, when contacted, said that his father led a simple life but had travelled extensively all over the world.
“He had a unique gift, when he handled the ladle, everything turned delicious and scrumptious,” he said.
Sundar said his father had been ill for some time and died peacefully at home.
Meippan’s funeral was held yesterday afternoon at the Simpang Lima Hindu Crematorium and was attended by over 300 people.
He leaves behind a wife, three sons, two daughters and fifteen grandchildren and hordes of friends and patrons who will definitely keep coming to the restaurant but will miss the friendly old man who will go from table to table to make them feel at home. – The Vibes, December 12, 2022
