LOCATED on the top floor of the historic RexKL in the heart of Kuala Lumpur, is a restaurant with a very unique name – Shhhbuuuleee – with a similarly unique collection of dishes that fuses east and west, as well as local and international flavours.
Led by chef Mui Kai Quan, who spent time in some of the most celebrated restaurants in the world, such as three-Michelin star Maaemo in Oslo, two-Michelin star The Ledbury in London, and Esquina in Singapore, the menu at Shhhbuuuleee is inspired by his Hakka roots in addition to what he learned over the course of his travels.
Sharing its location with the sprawling 6,000 sq ft BookXcess bookstore that takes up multiple levels, its name is a play on keeping quiet ‘shhh’, followed by Chinese characters ‘不理’ or ‘bù lǐ’, meaning ‘pay no attention to’.
The playfulness extends to the vibe the restaurant hopes to cultivate – though that probably depends on your dining partners. There’s a big interior space with tile countertops, as well as a curving bar with stools. It’s an unconventional layout, which plays into Shhhbuuuleee’s ethos.
Outside, there’s a single, curved metal bar which seats up to 25 guests that hugs the edge of the roof, allowing customers a clear view of a good chunk of the KL skyline from their seats and offering an alfresco dining experience unique in the city. Just pray it doesn’t rain when you make a visit.
For our dining experience, we had a sample of the eclectic menu from Chef Mui, experiencing a range of flavours and textures.
Who doesn’t like a bit of wagyu, the name that conjures up well tended cattle living the good life, all in the pursuit of being as mouth-wateringly fatty as possible when they arrive on our plates. This really translates to a tartare presentation, as the melt-in-your-mouth quality means it goes down easy, despite being raw. Spreading it out and eating it on the seaweed crackers provides a further contrast of tastes and textures.
Served with raw scallops, clams, broth granita, and Jinhua ham, the cold somen is not a typical dish, or at least preparation one would typically find. The chilly temperature actually awakens the plate, allowing all the subtle flavours to stand out. This helps because scallops and clams are not the most intensely flavourful. The in-house made somen noodles are the right level of toothsome, again contrasting with the softness of the seafood.
The Aged Shima Aji is first and foremost a very clean dish, consisting of a few elements – namely chrysanthemum, fermented cucumber, kaffir lime – that play off and balance each other.
.jpg)
The mark of well prepared kale is that it doesn’t taste like kale at all, and in this case the dish tastes like an elevated plate of kangkung. It wouldn’t look out of place with a couple assorted lauk and nasi. The kombu (kelp) flavour is very prominent in the dish. The wood ear mushrooms, while not plentiful, provide a chewing element that contrasts with the crunchiness of the kale.
Another simple dish that is elevated and improved by the technique behind it. But what sets it apart is the sesame and peanut butter sauce that is the foundation of the plate that gives it an umami punch. Peppers and peanut butter are not exactly a common combination that easily comes to mind, but they play off each other surprisingly well.
Now, this is one of those dishes that when you see it on the menu your ears perk up as you consider the challenge – pig ears aren’t exactly something one has the hankering for. And well, for the most part, it goes just about as you would expect.
While frying something in tempura batter is an obvious way to make it digestible, pig ears are on another level. While it tastes good at first (and second and third) bite, it’s just too chewy and refuses to go without a fight.
.jpg)
Beef tongue is very underrated. For some reason people are fine with eating chunks of muscle and fat, but tongue goes unheralded, at least outside of Latin America. Contrary to expectations, it is a very tender cut of meat. The way it’s presented at Shhhbuuuleee is obviously reminiscent of an elevated (a synonym for premium) satay skewer. The sauce is very reminiscent of traditional peanut sauce that goes very well with the meat.
Topped with a layer of black moss that really reinforces the oceanic look and feel of the plate. As all the aunties and other experts know, the fish head has a lot of flavourful meat, as long as you don’t make eye contact. The mushroom XO sauce goes really well with the fish.
.jpg)
A very hearty and filling vegetarian dish that once again combines simple ingredients that are elevated by the technique and presentation, and are in harmony with one another. The rice is the right kind of toothsome, while the mushrooms provide the meaty texture and protein, and the cured egg yolk provides the richness the plate needs.
.jpg)
This is a peculiar dessert, to say the least. There are a bunch of flavours and textures – dragon fruits, salted plum, puffed rice – that go together and don’t, at the same time. There’s crunch, chew, with the softness of the sorbet, but the taste is just off. It’s one of those cases where your eyes tell you one thing, but your tastebuds tell you something else.
Based on that sample of Shhhbuuuleee’s menu, you can tell that Chef Mui is very much the experimental sort. Most of the time, the combinations of ingredients and preparations work in balance, elevating what appear to be simple dishes at first blush.
However, some combinations don’t really come together as much as you’d like them to. Still, this establishment is very much intended for diners who want to experiment outside of their comfort zone.
In terms of the beverage component of F&B, Shhhbuuuleee has a strong inventory of a variety of saké, in keeping with its East Asian focus. The menu features some 18 sakés and shochus, plus craft beers and a selection of highballs and cocktails. Yes, there is also wine.
Shhhbuuuleee is open from 5pm-12am, Tuesdays to Sundays, as well as 12pm-3pm on weekends. – The Vibes, March 29, 2023
.jpg)
