Malaysia

Unravelling the enigma of Sabah’s Sogindai stones

Boulders stand as silent witnesses to tales etched into their ancient forms.

Updated 2 weeks ago · Published on 14 Apr 2024 7:00AM

Unravelling the enigma of Sabah’s Sogindai stones
The Kg Pahu Sogindai stones, with the taller one on the left signifying the male and the shorter one on the right being the female. – JASON SANTOS/The Vibes pic, April 14, 2024

by Jason Santos

EMBARKING on a 45-minute drive across Kiulu reveals a mysterious sight – two distinctively shaped boulders jutting out from the earth like ancient tombstones near a river. 

Known locally as the “Batu Sogindai” or “Sogindai” stones, they stand as silent witnesses to the tales etched into their ancient forms.

For years, these stones – one standing about three feet tall to symbolise the male and the other two-and-a-half feet tall representing the female – have resided near Sg Timulau.

In March this year, villagers made a bold move to relocate and bury them using an excavator just metres away from their original resting place.

This process was carefully accompanied by rituals to ensure a smooth transition and avoid any untoward incidents, according to 64-year-old villager Paralos Kombing.

The boulders are nestled in Kg Pahu in Kiulu, approximately 70km from Kota Kinabalu, and they have long intrigued locals.

It was amid the road construction across Kiulu that strange occurrences began to stir, said Kombing.

“Workers stationed by Sg Timulau reported unsettling encounters with the paranormal – visions of spectral figures frolicking in the river and eerie sounds such as buffaloes grunting and the growl of unfamiliar animals through the night,” he said.

He claimed it was not long before the workers relocated their encampment elsewhere out of fear. 

Roadwork across Kiulu commenced in 2019, but it was not until mid-March this year that the excavation and relocation of the Sogindai stones were done.

Despite their silent stoicism, these boulders held a sombre history. Like any other Sogindai stones found in Sabah, they were once reminders of the bloody headhunting rituals of the Kadazan-Dusun ancient tribes.

The boulders were used to hang the skulls of human victims. They were placed there to dry before the headhunter could collect them to bring them home.

But for each skull, a mark would be etched onto the male boulder as evidence of the grim tally of the lives taken.

For the boulder in Kg Pahu, there were 84 marks, which signifies about 84 human skulls have been dried there. 

So for such reasons, villagers believed the stones were haunted and to appease the spirits that might be within the rocks, rituals had to be performed before they could be relocated, said Kombing.

Headhunting was common, particularly among warring indigenous tribes in Borneo over a century ago.

As headhunting practices waned in the 20th century under colonial rule and the influence of religion, the significance of these stones evolved.

Now, plans are underway to elevate them as cultural landmarks for tourism.

Assistant Tourism, Culture, and Environment Minister Datuk Joniston Bangkuai said plans are afoot to build a shelter over the Sogindai stones and transform them into some kind of local attraction in Kiulu.

Tuaran MP Datuk Seri Wilfred Madius Tangau said more research must be done to understand the existence of the Sogindai stones in Kg Pahu.

Stating that the ancient headhunting practice in Sabah bore some resemblance to indigenous practices in Taiwan, he said delving deep into this legend would help the present people to make peace, perhaps resolving ancient tribal feuds that existed in Kiulu.

“These stones serve as tangible records of a bygone era, offering insights into a past perhaps marred by inter-village warfare and tribal customs. They can also signify the survival of the community and norms of that time.

“From learning what it meant, maybe we could make peace and find a way to compensate for the deeds of the past to bring about prosperity for the community,” said Tangau.

He indicated there might be a war in the olden days between Kg Pahu and Kg Lokos, which were just 10km apart.

Tangau also believed there might be more Sogindai stones in Kiulu and efforts to unearth every single one of them must be made to know a little bit of the Kiulu past. – The Vibes, April 14, 2024

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