Culture

Closer look at Penang’s Jawi Peranakan culture

Restaurant among notable spots on group’s heritage trail

Updated 2 years ago · Published on 17 Oct 2023 7:00AM

Closer look at Penang’s Jawi Peranakan culture
Jawi House was established by the Karim family of Punjabi-Jawi Peranakan ancestry, dating back six generations in George Town and four generations of women who created this incredible cuisine. – IAN MCINTYRE/The Vibes pic, October 17, 2023

by Ian McIntyre

GEORGE TOWN – The lesser known Jawi Peranakan group is part of Penang’s cultural heritage of Malay, Chinese, Indians and other minority groups, such as the Chinese-influenced Peranakan (Baba and Nyonya) and the Eurasians.

Jawi Peranakan originated from the marriages of traders from the Middle East, Pakistan, India Muslim, Acheh-Arabs with local women, who resided in Penang from the 18th century 

Over time, they became a common, yet a distinctive feature of George Town.

According to Tourism Malaysia’s northern region director Shahrul Aman Sabir Ahmad, like many other diverse communities here, a huge number has relocated to the Klang Valley, while some continue to reside in Penang.

Among the famous families of the Jawi Peranakan group, are the founders of the Habib Jewels Group, who specialise in affordable precious stones.

“They have their own way of life and a unique cuisine, so it is worth exploring if you are a tourist,” Shahrul told participants of a product familiarisation group recently.

The group was taken on a tour of the Jawi Peranakan trail and also its cuisine and homes in George Town, which has a unique Jawi architecture.

Among the interesting places visited by the group was Jawi House restaurant at 85 Armenian Street, one of the popular heritage streets in George Town.

Nestled between Unesco-protected properties, Jawi House captures the essence of what is defined as a Jawi Peranakan ancestor.

Jawi House was established by the Karim family of Punjabi-Jawi Peranakan ancestry, dating back six generations in George Town and four generations of women who created this incredible cuisine. 

Jawi Peranakan cuisine is known by the Malays as a “food for feasting” and its renowned Chef Nurilkarim Razha assures diners that the food takes the diner to a feast of culinary history.

Similar to Indian cuisine, the food is fused with spices and the aroma easily grows on the diner until it creates a strong appetite.

Overall, there are about 5,000 descendants now left in Penang.

They also have unique attire such as their kebaya and their high pointed songkok.

There is also a retelling of how the Jawi Peranakan came to exist in Penang, similar to how the Baba and Nyonya’s stories were spun.

Overall, Shahrul sees the heritage enclave in Penang gradually rebounding to receive tourism traffic, especially foreigners, who are thrilled to see unique colonial buildings dotted by the pre-war shophouses along the narrow bustling streets here.

The core zone encircles 109.38ha of George Town, while the buffer zone is 150.04ha.

There are 1,700 historic buildings within the core area while Penang has the largest collection of pre-war houses in the region. – The Vibes, October 17, 2023

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