MOST don’t identify the small town of Baling by its geographical region but by its dance with communism that saw the 1955 Baling Talks.
While much of the town’s landscape has not changed, it has slowly blossomed into an eco-tourism site where holidaymakers visit to gain respite. But even before communism left a blemish in its history books, Baling was already known as a nature escape.
In the late 1800s, the Sultan of Kedah then, Sultan Abdul Hamid, paid a visit to the hot springs at Ulu Legong. In preparation for his arrival, villagers at Ulu Legong, located 20 kilometres northward from the township of Baling, came together to build a square cement pond measuring 100 square feet.
They even recruited elephants to carry the building materials to the vicinity. Those were the budding beginnings of the village as an eco-tourism site before the Japanese occupation and communism usurped the quiet village.
Ulu Legong was one of the corridors for the entrance of Japanese soldiers to Malaysia in the 1940s.
Right after that was the Malayan Communist Emergency in 1948 that led to the 1956 Baling Talks that involved Chin Peng representing the Malayan Communist Party, David Marshall representing the Crown Colony of Singapore), and Tunku Abdul Rahman, representing the Government of the Federation of Malaya).
The talks were unsuccessful. Then there was the 1974 Baling Protest which saw thousands of students fighting for peasants' rights before over a thousand of them were arrested. Communism remains a threat as deadly ambushes continued to happen in Ulu Legong.
On October 29, 1981, nine soldiers were attacked by some 30 communists. The truck driver, Private Jamil Abd Hamid was shot in the head and six others died, riddled with bullets. Only two survived with injuries.
Then on November 19, 1985, there was a deadly clash at Kampung Memali, also known as the Memali incident when villagers resisted police’s attempt to arrest religious preacher Ibrahim Mahmud, who was known as Ibrahim Libya, under the Internal Security Act (ISA) for deviant teachings.
Eighteen people, including four policemen, were killed and more than 100 people were injured in the clash. However, with the dark past behind them, Ulu Legong now returns to its original appeal – nature. For those inclined to escape from the hustle and bustle, here are just some activities you can do at Ulu Legong.
1. Village Homestays
Homestays are not a new concept, especially to Malaysians as it was launched way back in 1995 under the Malaysia Rural Tourism Master Plan. However, it is important to note that many of these said homestays are not registered under the umbrella of the Ministry of Tourism, Arts and Culture (Motac).
The homestays at Kampung Keda at Ulu Legong are one of the 15 registered ones in Kedah under Motac. If you fancy time travelling back to the 80s and 90s where water heaters are not a thing and you get woken up by crowing from the rooster, this is the place for you.
Located in a valley surrounded by hills and lush greenery, you’ll wake up to misty cool mornings with a cup of 'kopi o' in hand, courtesy of your host. Prices start from RM120 for a room of three.
2. Ulu Legong Hotsprings
The hot springs at Ulu Legong are caused by a natural occurrence when rainwater slips through cracks deep into the earth dissolving other minerals along with it. It is then brought up to the surface again as it is steamed up.
The origin of the hot spring can be found in the first pool where temperatures are approximately 70℃. This pool is cordoned off as it is too hot for a dip. However, the water is channelled to other pools in the vicinity for the enjoyment of visitors.
Aside from the first pool, there are two pools for adults, one specifically for women, one specifically for children and three others that are newly constructed close to the entrance. It is open 24 hours a day and most start sauntering in to relax in the pools from 11pm till the wee hours in the morning.
There are also 42 chalets and 50 beds in the dorms within the hot springs. Priced at RM8 per entry for adults and RM4 for children, the owners believe that the hot springs entry fee is the cheapest in the world.
3. Meals in the river
Picnics by the river are so yesterday in Ulu Legong. When you visit Dusun Tok Wak Desa Sentosa, you have the option to enjoy your meal in the river.
Since 2018, business owner, Mohd Akhir, has been hosting visitors with home-cooked meals like sup kambing, nasi lemak, banana stem curry, stir-fried local vegetables and stingless bee honey coffee made, all grown in his land.
He will set up tables and chairs in the middle of the Ulu Legong river, where the water is clear and cool, and patrons can sit and eat their warm meals while dipping their feet in the river. Prices start from RM18 per person, per meal.
Other activities can also be held in the river, including tug-of-war and shrimp hunting.
4. Hiking Gunung Gadong
Apart from running his outdoor F&B business, Mohd Akhir also doubles as a tour guide up to Gunung Gadong. One can either take a one-and-a-half to two-hour hike to the peak that measures 791m above sea level, jungle trek around the area or hike towards the Gunung Gadong waterfall.
Groups can also opt to do river trekking where they can discover and immerse in nature while their feet founder against the current. Within 30 minutes from Ulu Legong, there are many other eco-tourism activities like caving at Gua Sireh, hiking at Gunung Baling and a visit to the Orang Asli village.
Eco-tourism sites are managed by the Baling District Council with support from Tourism Malaysia. – The Vibes, June 11, 2022
