EAT and Cook in Kuala Lumpur has been named the 2022 recipient of the prized American Express One To Watch Award. Selected by the organisers of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants in collaboration with its regional experts, the American Express One To Watch Award recognises a restaurant considered to be a rising star of the region and aims to celebrate gastronomic excellence, innovation and potential.
Eat and Cook was born out of adversity. During the height of the Covid-19 pandemic, chefs Lee Zhe Xi and Soh Yong Zhi lost their respective jobs as hotel chefs. Turning misfortune into a moment of opportunity, the pair pursued their passion project: to create an omakase-style restaurant serving modern interpretations of classic Malaysian dishes.
Launched in 2020, Eat and Cook was originally housed in a modest six-seater venue. In response to its growing clientele, the restaurant relocated to a larger space in Bukit Jalil City in March 2021 and now welcomes up to 30 guests in an intimate setting.
William Drew, director of content for Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, says: “Eat and Cook’s co-owners and chefs Lee Zhe Xi and Soh Yong Zhi are reinterpreting their national cuisine in bold, innovative ways. As the winner of the American Express One To Watch Award 2022, the restaurant is recognised for its refined cooking techniques, surprising combinations and creative execution, as well as its owners’ resilience during challenging times. They are creating a new identity for modern Malaysian cuisine and we expect to see much more of them in the years to come.”
The two chefs developed their love of cooking from their grandmothers. Their paths crossed while studying culinary arts at Berjaya University, Kuala Lumpur and they later honed their skills working in the kitchens of KL’s most prestigious restaurants. Inspired by the food of their childhood, they set about creating a restaurant that celebrates local flavours, reframing iconic dishes through a modern lens.
At Eat and Cook, Lee and Soh present ingredient-driven seasonal tasting menus that expand the possibilities of Malaysian cooking. In keeping with the omakase tradition, the menu changes daily according to the availability and quality of local produce. While honouring authentic Malaysian flavours, each dish is distinguished by the chefs’ technical mastery, creative ambition and deep respect for their culinary heritage.
The much-loved local dish of sambal prawns, for example, is elegantly elevated for a fine dining setting with béarnaise sauce, barley risotto, salted vegetables and tomatoes from Cameron Highlands.
Acknowledging the award, chef Lee says: “On behalf of the Eat and Cook team, we are honoured to receive this award. It’s a validation of the hard work we’ve put in the last year and our commitment to elevate Malaysian cuisine. This award will inspire us to continue on our journey to bring the Malaysian dining experience to the next level.
“I was stunned when I was told that we are the 2022 recipient. It brought me to reflect on all the hard work we’ve put into the restaurant this past year. I was just surprised and overjoyed to hear the news. I actually missed the email from 50 Best over the Lunar New Year period; I was just glad I was not too late by the time I responded.”
When asked what he thought is the greatest misconception about Malaysian cuisine, Lee responded, “Malaysian cuisine is not only about curries and spices. Malaysian cuisine reflects Malaysia’s multiculturalism. It is a cuisine for Malaysians and is built upon the flavours we grew up with. For me, Malaysian cuisine shows the diverse nature of the country and the many races who identify as Malaysian. We also have access to some of the best produce in the world – the slipper lobsters from Sabah are absolutely delicious.”
Hannah Kelly, Vice President of Strategic Dining Partnerships and Benefits for American Express, says: “The success of Eat and Cook embodies the ingenuity and tenacity of those in the restaurant industry and American Express is proud to stand behind this international community. It is an honour to present the American Express One To Watch Award – an award that champions the next generation of industry talent and encourages gastronomic exploration.”
Eat and Cook joins a stellar line-up of recent One To Watch award winners, including Florilège in Tokyo (2016), TocToc in Seoul (2017), Toyo Eatery in Manila (2018), JL Studio in Taichung (2019), Masque in Mumbai (2020) and Meta in Singapore (2021).
The achievements of Eat and Cook’s inspiring chefs will be celebrated as part of the ceremony for Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2022 on March 29, which will be broadcast to a global audience via Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants Facebook and the 50 Best Restaurants TV YouTube channel. To mark the occasion, 50 Best will also host physical events in Bangkok, Tokyo and Macau, giving gastronomic communities the opportunity to celebrate in person. – The Vibes, March 16, 2022
