PROVIDING skin with deep moisturisation is a golden rule that cosmetics companies have been advocating for years. And rightly so, because it's essential to protect the hydrolipid film on the skin's surface to prevent future aggression from external factors.
But previously, the focus has been on deep layers of skin, particularly to ensure skin regeneration, with little or no regard for its first and main bulwark against external factors: the skin barrier.
Now, this is about to change, since brands are offering more and more cosmetics designed to repair and strengthen this protective layer, while consumers are increasingly determined to prevent certain harms rather than constantly trying to conceal them.
Skin barrier, the first line of defense
The skin barrier is considered to be the outermost layer of skin, called the stratum corneum, and the hydrolipid film that covers it. This acts as a kind of protective shield, where the hydrolipid film is composed of water and fat, whose balance can be affected by various factors.
Today, it is this balance – which can be disrupted by age, a beauty routine that is too intense, stress, pollution or even diet – that is at the heart of concerns, because of its importance for the beauty and health of skin.
Gone are the days of plastering on multiple layers of products to try to get rid of the signs of aging, imperfections, and other damage. Now, the focus is on restoring and preserving the skin barrier to keep this damage at bay for as long as possible.
It is a question of prevention rather than cure, and of reinforcing the skin's natural defenses to make it more beautiful in the long term. This is a major trend that is gaining followers all over the world, and starting at a very young age.
On TikTok, the #skinbarrier hashtag counts no less than 2.7 billion views, while #skinbarrierrepair already has nearly 240 million views. These hashtags harbor all kinds of tutorials and tips on how to restore and preserve the famous skin barrier.
Finding the right balance
It is easy to tell if the skin barrier is damaged, something that can be expressed in many ways. Oily skin, dry skin, tight or irritated skin, and even redness can be signs of a damaged skin barrier, and more specifically, of an imbalance in the hydrolipid film.
Before even thinking about beauty routines, it's important to eat a healthy, balanced diet, drink enough water, and protect yourself against certain external factors, such as the sun and pollution, with dedicated cosmetics. And of course, sleep – a crucial time for skin regeneration – is also essential.
Looking more specifically at skincare, it's important to banish all aggressive cosmetics that may have a short-term action but which contribute to degrading the skin barrier. Gentle cleansers are to be preferred (like a cream or a cleansing oil), as well as vegetable oils, while weekly exfoliation must be gentle.
The best thing to do is to stick to a minimalist beauty routine with a gentle cleanser and makeup remover, a moisturiser, and possibly a serum. Because changing your beauty routine frequently can contribute to damaging the skin barrier.
On TikTok, videos also recommend turning away from acids and retinoids to embrace ceramides and hyaluronic acid, which are more soothing to the skin. These steps should allow most people to regain healthy skin in three or four weeks.
Looking to prebiotics
As early as 2021, we were seeing the emergence of prebiotics and probiotics in the cosmetics sector, with more and more options coming to the market. And this trend is not unrelated to this sudden interest in the skin barrier.
Prebiotics can be viewed as a specific 'food' to help good bacteria develop to the detriment of bad bacteria, maintaining balance in the microbiota, and thus ensuring that the skin is soothed and defends itself properly against external aggression.
Sound familiar? In other words, introducing prebiotics into your beauty routine can help reduce inflammation and soothe the skin, but above all to strengthen it, in order to regain a sufficient level of hydration, and thus fight against dryness, redness or imperfections.
Many brands, such as Gallinée, Aurelia Skincare, Orveda and Talika, now offer gentle cosmetics based on prebiotics. These products can help restore the skin's famous barrier for long-term benefit. – ETX Daily Up, February 9, 2023
