Malaysia

They use our name, heritage, but where’s our say: the Melakan-Portuguese dilemma

Activist fighting for community’s legacy warns any development must get local consultation

Updated 4 years ago · Published on 19 Nov 2021 7:00AM

They use our name, heritage, but where’s our say: the Melakan-Portuguese dilemma
A massive reclamation project near the Melakan-Portuguese community's coastal village has affected villagers' age-old access and reliance on the sea, and much of its culture, inherited over centuries, is on the brink of extinction as support from those in power wavers. – LANCELOT THESEIRA/The Vibes pic, November 19, 2021

by Lancelot Theseira

MELAKA – Hosting a panoramic view of the Straits of Malacca, the now abandoned Lisbon Hotel is located at the seafront of the centuries-old Portuguese settlement in Melaka, a stone’s throw away from the famous Portuguese Square depicted on postcards.

Little known to many, the seemingly placid enclave is currently facing massive development, whose controversy encapsulates the dilemma faced by various traditional communities on the eve of the state election tomorrow.

A gigantic reclamation project near the community’s coastal village has already damaged and affected the villagers’ age-old access and reliance on the sea. Much of the local culture, inherited over centuries, is on the brink of extinction as support from those in power wavers.

The issues voiced by Portuguese activists in this regard mirror concerns of much of the local population of Melaka’s historic inner city, a section of which has been designated by Unesco as a World Heritage Site.

“Whichever government comes in, we want open dialogue,” said concerned resident and activist Martin Theseira.

Melakan-Portuguese community activist Martin Theseira at the pier of the Portuguese settlement, the site of looming cultural erosion on a massive scale. – LANCELOT THESEIRA/The Vibes pic, November 19, 2021
Melakan-Portuguese community activist Martin Theseira at the pier of the Portuguese settlement, the site of looming cultural erosion on a massive scale. – LANCELOT THESEIRA/The Vibes pic, November 19, 2021

A prominent figure in the settlement, Martin said any government wishing to help the local heritage area must first consult the community.

“If you want to help us, let us have a say, let us participate,” he told The Vibes in Melaka recently.

Initially slated to be a cultural complex with a budget hotel, Lisbon Hotel was designed to feature lots that could accommodate small businesses such as cafes and handicraft stores.

The now-abandoned Lisbon Hotel was set to house small traders, but is now leased to Limkokwing Academy of Creativity and Innovation, dashing any hopes of the local community to rent the lots for business ventures. – LANCELOT THESEIRA/The Vibes pic, November 19, 2021
The now-abandoned Lisbon Hotel was set to house small traders, but is now leased to Limkokwing Academy of Creativity and Innovation, dashing any hopes of the local community to rent the lots for business ventures. – LANCELOT THESEIRA/The Vibes pic, November 19, 2021

The project was also touted as an initiative to rejuvenate the settlement and draw more tourists. Martin recalled former chief minister Datuk Seri Mohd Ali Mohd Rustam’s claim when he was in power years ago that the hotel would “benefit the residents of the Portuguese settlement”.

However, the residents’ hopes of renting these lots for business ventures were dashed when the building was launched exclusively as a hotel.

Adding insult to injury, he said that the settlement’s community was left out of the running of the hotel.

“They use our name, our heritage, they want to capitalise on it,” he said. Any development, he stressed, will not succeed if it does not include the interests and makeup of the community.

After a few short years of operation, the Lisbon Hotel ceased operations and the building was subsequently leased to the Limkokwing Academy of Creativity and Innovation.

A check by The Vibes found the premises to be vacant. It is also understood that the building is not in use.

Support for local communities must be sincere

As the low-key campaigning for the state election reaches its zenith, two weeks of jaded nerves under the scorching Melaka sun will come to a close.

Battling for the hearts and minds of half a million voters, 112 candidates will go head-to-head for 28 seats across the state all in the middle of a global health pandemic.

While candidates pledge all manner of economic goodies and institutional reforms, the issues plaguing voters, as highlighted by what is afflicting the Portuguese, will likely remain.

Martin, who runs a small business making pickles, said that any attempts to assist the community must be sincere.

“If you want to help, help us sincerely, help us with the thought of sustaining this community for the long-term, not just to show that you are helping minorities,” he said.

According to Martin, the construction of the Portuguese Square in 1985 is one such example of insincerity.

The plaque commemorating the launch of the Portuguese Square is one example of an insincere move to ‘help’ minorities, says Martin. – LANCELOT THESEIRA/The Vibes pic, November 19, 2021
The plaque commemorating the launch of the Portuguese Square is one example of an insincere move to ‘help’ minorities, says Martin. – LANCELOT THESEIRA/The Vibes pic, November 19, 2021

Designed to resemble a Portuguese plaza and market, the square was built as a multipurpose leisure and tourism complex that included a community museum, a souvenir shop, and a number of restaurants.

After being left unused in its first year, a member of the community approached the government and proposed that cultural performances be held there.

Subsequently, a small budget was allocated for the community to organise events.

Martin said these performances then became a major draw for the settlement, with tourists and locals alike gathering on the weekends to watch them.

Besides traditional Portuguese dances such as the branyo, the square also played host to Malay, Chinese, Indian, and Peranakan cultural performances.

The branyo is said to contain influences from the Malay joget, and is one of the many cultural performances hosted at the Portuguese Square. – Wikipedia pic, November 19, 2021
The branyo is said to contain influences from the Malay joget, and is one of the many cultural performances hosted at the Portuguese Square. – Wikipedia pic, November 19, 2021

However, after just one year, funding was withdrawn and the events came to a halt.

“They have money to throw to white elephants, but no budget to run a cultural performance here. How much will it cost?” Martin said.

Earnest hopes for election

Expressing his concern for racial intolerance, Martin is unapologetic in his support for Pakatan Harapan (PH), which he said “must” win in the coming election.

Referring to the Kedah government’s recent decision not to renew licences of gambling and 4D lottery businesses and the Kuala Lumpur City Council’s move to restrict liquor sales in grocers, Martin said these are infringements of minority rights.

Close to home, the controversial decision to ban the sale of alcohol around Lisbon Hotel was “the worst decision”, he said.

“If they come to power – Umno, PAS – we’re finished. If they win with a mandate, they will do as they please.”

On the topic of who he would choose to lead the state, Martin answered: “Our main choice is still Adly,” referring to Amanah vice-president and PH’s candidate for chief minister Adly Zahari. Adly had in fact led the state from May 2018 to March 2020 when his government was toppled by crossovers.

Martin then went on to share an anecdote of the former chief minister.

Martin Theseira (far right) pictured with then chief minister Adly Zahari (third from right) and others during Christmas at the Portuguese settlement. – Adly Zahari Facebook pic, November 19, 2021
Martin Theseira (far right) pictured with then chief minister Adly Zahari (third from right) and others during Christmas at the Portuguese settlement. – Adly Zahari Facebook pic, November 19, 2021

During Christmas last year, after the collapse of the PH-led state government, Adly had visited the settlement in his personal capacity.

When Adly was taken to the home of a resident, he saw a Bible in the house, picked it up and asked the owner in a spirit of harmony: “How do you refer to the Bible?”

To Martin, this simple act showed an open-mindedness never before seen in other politicians, leading him to suggest that Adly “will make a very good CM (chief minister)”.

For the record, concerns about heavy-handedness and discrimination made Martin become a member of DAP over 30 years ago. He is still active in the party’s local chapter.

Asked what contributions PH had made for his community during its brief stint in charge of Melaka, Martin acknowledged that the coalition may not concede to every single one of his demands, but he adds: “At least PH will listen.” – The Vibes, November 19, 2021

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