.jpg)
THERE is always the looming school of thought that Malaysians flee the country and forget what it is to be Malaysian.
Victor Low, who has called the United States home for almost 20 years, is a testament that this notion is untrue. Exuding a genuine sense of warmth, Low is more than happy to meet and welcome fellow Malaysians to the Land of the Free.
He is forthcoming with helpful information and shares connections to make one feel at home, even to the point of which Asian market to get a bottle of Lingam's chilli sauce.
"Being Malaysian to me means embracing diversity, racial harmony, striving in tough situations and making the best of things around us," he says in defining what it is to be an 'anak Malaysia'.
The father of a four-year-old son, Low left home on a wing and prayer in August 2004 to pursue his studies – an opportunity he thought would be worth chancing upon.
"Truth be told, I always did badly in school. I wound up being last in class and flunked my SPM but I never was a troublemaker, never played truant and I had teachers who were vested in my education. They sacrificed to provide some of us tuition after school hours, even on weekends.
"The knowledge and learning never really kicked in until I went to college at APIIT. Even at that point, my parents said I had one year to prove myself.
"And because one of my teachers knew my interest in computers, he recommended APIIT for its IT courses and the fact that the college focused on aptitude tests for admission rather than SPM results.
"I aced the aptitude test and was accepted, and that was the turning point in my life. I was fortunate to be friends with the top students who were willing to tutor me and help me through classes. By the end of the first year, I was doing well and eventually graduated with second upper-class honours," Low reminisced.
The son of an immigrant from China, Low truly saw what it was to struggle. Being raised in a poor family, he was the third in a family of four siblings.
Today, Low is a brand of his own: the man behind 'Serai' and 'Kapitan' – two restaurants nestled in and around Chicago city. Serai was set up in December 2015, filling up a seven-year void since 'Penang' was burnt down in 2008.
"Owned by Malaysians too, they set up shop again in Arlington Heights and I frequented it as I lived nearby. Eventually, we became really close friends, almost family. One of the Malaysian chefs reached out to me, looking to open his own restaurant and I cajoled him to stick to Malaysian food to promote our culture.
"Together, we figured out the menu and concept and he asked if I was interested in investing and being a partner. Again, I chanced upon an opportunity that clearly did not disappoint and since then we have been spreading Malaysian culture, cuisine and hospitality," he adds.
Low is proud that Char Koay Teow, Curry Laksa and Hainanese Chicken rice now map the culinary scene of Chicago.
It was never an easy journey, Low remembers. His partner and he tried to make every cent count. They found themselves bootstrapped with no experience in marketing. Making a crew of four, it was at the end of the second week of opening when they scored a breakthrough.
"We had a full house on a weekend, waits were out the door, things were absolutely mental but we were operating with still just four people – the chef, his friend, my friend and me. That was a crash course for us and then we finally started hiring.
"Some of our initial hires are still with us both in the kitchen and front of house – which is a rare thing in the industry," Low says.
At 'Kapitan', the menu is a more Peranakan-based spread. The typical Malaysian Nasi Lemak remains but one can choose Kari Kapitan Ayam, or Rendang Daging. There is also the elusive Roti Canai served with dhall, and a glass of Teh Tarik enough to lift your 'semangat' Malaysia.
At both eateries, the clientele is represented by a nice mix of local folk, Asians, and Malaysians and some regulars have patronised the restaurants since they first opened their doors.
In the end, Low says, it is the food that will always bring Malaysians together and keep them united.
"There are many perceptions of Malaysians who are happy to run away from the country and lose all sense of patriotism. In fact, Malaysians are always seeking a better life. Some end up in foreign land to study, and some wind up meeting their partners and remain there.
"No matter the reason, everyone eventually misses Malaysian culture and cuisine. I've had many people tell me they are happy that 'Serai' is open and they bring their friends over to showcase Malaysian cuisine.
"Our food cures a lot of homesickness for Malaysians and let's not forget the Singaporeans," he says with a chuckle.
It is within restaurant walls that everyone sits to talk and reminisce about life in Malaysia, the political scene, the culture, and the neighbourhoods they come from.
"I will not deny that debates always arise, too: politics, food in the Klang Valley vs Penang food but I have made a lot of friends from all walks of life. And we have customers from as far as Michigan coming monthly because there are no other Malaysian restaurants," Low adds.
It is through food, too, that he keeps Malaysians united. Low has been instrumental in orchestrating multiple networking events so Malaysians can get to know each other.
"I figured since I have met everyone separately at the restaurant and introduced a few, why not host an event and bring everyone together? These events have proved to be successful but everyone has managed to get to know each other.
"Since then, we created the Facebook group – Midwest Malaysian Network, to connect Malaysians and share our knowledge, thoughts and many other things. This was a spin-off from the Global Malaysian Network on Facebook," he says.
Low added that one can take the Malaysian out of Malaysia, but you can't ever take Malaysia out of Malaysians.
Every year on August 31, a Malaysian works with the City of Chicago to raise the Jalur Gemilang at the Daley Center – a practice that dates back decades. This year, Low has been handed the honour to raise the flag, for a second time. He first did it in 2016.
"It was and continues to be, a proud moment when we get to raise the flag in Chicago. Never have I ever imagined seeing a Malaysian flag flying in one of the largest cities in the United States, and I get to help raise it.
"It makes me very proud to be a Malaysian and I continue to be," he adds.
Low also flies the Jalur Gemilang at his home and around his restaurants. Determined to drive awareness about Malaysia, he explains Merdeka to his customers, and shares the country's history, how it achieved Independence from British rule and how far it has come.
"We try to avoid the negativity but what rings true about being Malaysian is that we are open to being exposed to different cuisines, cultures and languages all with great respect for others.
"And yet, our instinct and nature is to seek out a fellow Malaysian and look out for each other wherever and however we can. I want to pass this nature down to my son and I hope he will remember and carry this instinct with him always," Low adds. – The Vibes, August 31, 2022
Hailing from Penang, former journalist Llew Ann Phang recently began calling Chicago home, where she now lives with her husband and two daughters.
